Pilsdon Pen

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WE TWIST and switch along the road to Pilsdon. Up and round, round and up. It rains. Clouds mass over Marshwood Vale.

Cows’ tails twitch as I climb their dairy farm gate to get a better photo.

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Rolling patchwork hills ripple for miles, whispering of faery landscapes like Avalon, and the hobbits’ Shire.

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We see many different mounds of dung, but no animals save squawking crows can be seen or heard. We’re 277 metres above sea level.

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Ye olde Iron Age settlers bred rabbits in special warrens on the top. Lewesdon Hill is never far away. Some say she stands taller than Pilsdon Pen.

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It’s pretty hard to tell. What do you think?

Air’s so still, sounds carry for miles. Bramble-snagged ramparts snake round the sides. Brackish pools of rainwater stand, sullenly.

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Turf is springy, sprinkled with slate. Frazzled ferns are outdone by glorious gorse and hawthorn berries.

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Trees are wuthered.

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Steppes are hewn into the flinty steep.

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The views are staggeringly beautiful. The air is moist and pure and still and cool. Something magic happens here. A great silence steals into my soul. Doors open in my head, in my heart. I feel glad, and wise, at peace.

At the bottom, a bird sits on a wire, then slowly flaps away. In the car park is a Celtic Orthodox Church poster advertising services for the parish of St Gwenn (a variation on St Wite?)

We stop at the Shave Cross Inn for half a pint of the ‘local’ cider, The Pitfield Thunderbolt. Sitting by the crackling fire, I think of Pilsdon Pen. I’m still suffused with quiet joy, and yearn to return.

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In search of Fishpond Bottom

SUCKERS for silly-sounding place names, we’re terribly excited when Google maps reveal to us the heretofore uncharted territories of Fishpond Bottom, close to Lyme Regis and the Devon border. But this tiny hamlet is so tiny, we somehow manage to miss it altogether. Despite a five mile hike around the Marshwood Vale, we only skirt the edges of a green bowl, where our promised land lies.

Taking it from the top, my first tumble comes scampering up the ramparts at the Iron Age hill fort Coney Castle, landing cushioned by piles of damp and pungent leaf mulch.

As we descend towards Fishpond Bottom, the sun sparkles off Lyme Bay. The path is studded with splashes of yellow gorse. This is Dorset at its best – truly an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

Lyme Light

All I know about Fishpond Bottom is what I can glean from the blog by local photographer Jonathan Tolhurst, who intriguingly mentions that the hamlet is named ‘after the Fishpond which was created by some breakaway monks from Abbotsbury’.

The terrain is not for the faint-booted. We take an unmetalled road, slipping and sliding our way along ancient lanes cobbled together by people from long ago. It’s spongy, boggy, and sometimes we’re ankle-deep in slurry.

After panting up a hilly incline we pause for a picnic next to Nettlemore Farm. Perching on three-legged stools, shelling hard-boiled eggs and munching on chunks of cheddar, we excite the interest of two small boys playing spies. Peering at us through binoculars, they alternately hide behind a hedge, drag out a telescope on a tripod and take photographs of us with a disposable camera. In turn, we train our binoculars back on them and can’t stop laughing.

We keep on trekking. Halfway down a sloping field, craning my neck to follow a kestrel’s flight, I slip and land splat! in an enormous cow pat.

Undeterred, we trample on – and suddenly realise we’ve somehow stumbled into foreign lands. The B3165 road creates a natural boundary between Devon and Dorset. To our right, the paths are badged up by Devon County Council

…and on our left, street furniture is stamped with the logo of neighbouring authority, Dorset County Council.

What a bureaucratic minefield! Is it unfair to imagine buck-passing phone calls from Dorchester to Exeter? Who’s in charge of clearing fallen trees from the road? Or potholes?

The B3165

As we stumble on, fungus and lichen clutch at trunks and logs. Mossy tree roots morph into copper piles of leaves.

We emerge at Lamberts Castle, high on the Wessex Ridgeway – the perfect wild camping spot come the summer. We dip down and look into the round bowl valley below. The Marshwood Vale stretches out in a lazy green haze.

As we clamber back towards the car, sheep fart loudly behind us. Pink starts to stripe the sky, and the sun sets on Fishpond Bottom. I smell of cow dung all the way home.

Nettle Eating: World Championships 2010

IMAGINE 60 people competitively chomping their way through hundreds of feet of stinging nettles.

Add in generous splashes of sunshine, beer and the odd pile of vomit – which contestants must ‘re-consume’, or face disqualification – and you’ve got Dorset’s answer to some of the weirder fields at the Glastonbury festival.

Competitive eating is always a curiously compelling spectacle, but this year’s world stinging nettle eating championships, hosted by the Bottle Inn at Marshwood, takes things to a whole new level.

Local legend has it that the contest was born over 20 years ago after two pub punters argued over whose nettles were the longest. The Urtica Dioica nettles are supplied by the local Hooper family who, apparently, carefully nurture them on a muckheap all year round. In a field next to the pub in the ravishing Marshwood Vale, around 500 people turn up in blazing sunshine to cheer as participants, who are not allowed to wear gloves, strip two-foot-long nettle stalks of leaves and gobble them up as quickly as possible inside the space of an hour. The winner is the person with the most clean stalks.

Competitors are a motley crew – the intrepid men and women sport face paint and novelty hats. There’s even a hen party, dressed as hula girls, wading their way through yards of the weeds.

Some of the nettle-eaters seem comparatively normal, like Jon Slack, a 34-year-old commodities buyer from Horn Ash, who sits next to us in the crowd before the competition begins. Why is he doing this? “I have no idea,” he says. “I must be an idiot. My goal is to eat 12 feet of nettles, but I draw the line at eating my own vomit.”

Jon Slack (centre) in action.

Alas, once the contest gets underway, Jon is the first person to surrender and leave the arena, amid rapturous applause. He did manage to eat 12 feet, but not keep it down. “I threw up,” he says ruefully. “It was not nice. They tasted like a very acidic version of raw spinach.” So would he do it again? “No. Never, ever, ever.”

Had enough yet?

This man was sick twice. He only 're-consumed' once.

Last year's winner (centre) defending his title

This competition is not for the faint-hearted – the nettles sting your fingers, arms, mouth and gums, and turn your teeth and tongue black. “It feels horrible,” says Mark Day, a father-of-two from Bridport.

Mark Day: grasping the nettle

Last year, both men and women winners ate the leaves from 48 feet of nettle stalks. This year’s nettle-eaters come tantalisingly close to breaking the championship record of 78 feet, set around eight years ago. Eventually the victors are declared as Sam the Fishmonger from Wellington, who ate 74 feet, and Laura from Weymouth, crowned top female nettle-muncher after chewing her way through 40 feet. Both winners went home with a trophy and a crate of Cornish Stinger – a beer made from stinging nettles, of course. (Tastes like Germolene, by the way).

Laura clasping her winner's trophy

As afternoon melts into evening there’s a strangely medieval feel in the air – maybe it’s the Uplyme Morris Men cracking their sticks and grabbing unwitting spectators to jig with them. Maybe it’s the ferret racing, the expressions of pain and disgust on nettle eaters’ faces, or perhaps it’s the audience chanting ‘eat it! Eat it!’ whenever nettle leaves are sicked up.

My verdict, after wincingly tasting a couple? Nettle leaves taste like runner beans, and make your mouth awfully dry. The best technique is to fold them over, touching only the non-stinging parts (top) of the leaf, then chew. Very carefully.

Think I’ll stick to eating them in salads.