Chihuahuas in Charmouth

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AS I type, they squirm on my lap, a couple of tufty, snuffling creatures with limpid eyes and outsize ears.

I’m dog-sitting two chihuahuas. As I’ve never been to Charmouth beach, we all went to see the sun set last night. A pair of boats are perched high on the shingle.

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The sea’s heaved rubble right up to the beach cafe’s welcome mat. The sun’s glowing celestial pink, drawing out the rest of the sky in a haze of navy, lemon, indigo.

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Lowry-like stick figures perambulate into the sunset. Behind us, the prehistoric cliffs rear green and brown to the east and the west. Serried ranks of beach huts seem Colosseum-coloured in the fading light.

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Children pan for finds in rockpools.

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The sea slinks away. The sun sinks lower. Turning pewter, sodden sand reflects the glorious hues back at me.

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Stan and Ollie won’t go in the water, but they’re having a whale of a time trotting and sniffing around boulders. A drenched spaniel, hair matted like a mythical sea monster, moseys up to say hello.

And then it’s time to say goodbye – we’re all a little bit wet and cold! Can’t wait to come back here in the summer.

On holiday, in Eype

DAY off. Big floppy sunhat on Eype beach.

What a day. The beach isn’t packed, but there’s still a couple of hundred holidaymakers and locals barbecuing, swimming, reading, sunbathing, strolling, screaming, fishing and dog walking.

Bang goes my half-hope of having the place to myself. I skip over a river running down to the sea and shuffle along the tideline until most of the people are gone.

Close to the waves, the sea twinkles. Speed boats skid past. Gulls mew. A couple loll in a dinghy. Two leggy teens wade into the ankle-deep surf, giggling and squealing.

Is the tide coming in? I promise myself I’ll get in the sea when it comes to greet me. I wait.

Then it’s too hot, and I hop in. It’s lovely. The water’s warm, in patches. I drift along, spying on people on the beach, gazing at stripes of shingle and headland and sky.

Wow. I’m floating in Lyme Bay. The water’s cloudy, a light blue here and a deeper, foreign blue over there. On one side is West Bay, the other is Charmouth. Maybe I’ll go there tomorrow, or Monday. Gulls fly above, their little legs tucked under.

Hauling myself out, I try to read a book but get distracted by the shingle. The stones are black and orange and pink and mustard and apricot. They squeak like unoiled hinges when poured through fingers. Each one’s strafed with time and tide. Some are pockmarked with fossilised acne and quartzes.

Salt prickles on skin as seawater dries in the breeze. It’s time to go. On the way back I can’t help drooling at dream cottages.

It’s not long before I’m deep in typical West Dorset countryside – ancient sunken lanes dappled with sunshine, rolling fields, grazing sheep.

At Eype Centre for the Arts, a couple of artistic types are hefting canvasses and smoking, bare-foot, on a bench. I smile. I love living in Bridport.

Bluebells in the Bottom

MAYBE it’s too late for bluebells. Maybe there’s been too much rain. Anyway, we’re following a four-mile bluebell yomp, as outlined on page 62 of this month’s Dorset magazine.

Instead of bluebells, we’re ankle deep in cow pats. Weeks of torrential rain have left the bridleways of Fishpond Bottom resembling, well, the bottom of a fishpond.

We’ve been here before but this time, we start off in Champernhayes Wood, thrusting forth an impressive battery of tree trunks and stumps. Hazelnut shells crunch underfoot. But no bluebells.

Some are scattered sparsely round the gorse in the neighbouring meadow, and a few prop up the pretty hedgerows.

But nothing like the hazy violet carpets we’d rather hoped for. Still, there’s plenty of other splashes of spring colour for us to marvel at.

Trees froth and foam over with new leaves and acid green buds shooting into the sky. Lilac spumes from a hedge. We see buttercups, cow parsley, the air smells sweetly of freshly cut grass. Fern fronds unfurl. Nettles flower, as tiny pink and white stars decorate the roadside.

A one-eyed horse peers over a gate. Fields rise from the valley. We climb and descend in a gentle rhythm. Sometimes, we slosh through streams. We pass the barns of Sheepwash Farm. More horses watch us trip along.

Beyond a dairy farm is a field of Friesians with vast, swinging udders. ‘W/R’ (shorthand for Wessex Ridgeway) is scrawled on a piece of board by the gate. Silently, the cows regard us as we wade through boggy grass. The smell of manure is overpowering. Thinking of the trampling scene in Tamara Drewe, I start to feel nervous.

There’s a chill in the air as we skip over a stile and emerge into a field of long, lush, green grass. We sit down and munch on ham sandwiches. Below us, a flock of seagulls hover behind a tractor ploughing up fresh earth. Buzzards circle overhead. To our left, we can see the bright blue wedge of the sea at Charmouth.

Picnic over, we trot down through another farm into Wootton Fitzpaine, a tranquil and neatly manicured village. One of West Dorset’s quaint white fingerposts directs us to the Monkton Wylde and Fishpond road. Then we follow the track into Knapp Farm.

The last mile is uphill and I’m panting all the way. Not for nothing does the magazine describe this walk as ‘challenging’ and ‘very strenuous’.

We splash through more boggy meadows, struggle back into the woods and gasp with delight. ‘Bluebells!’ we hoot in unison, startling some dog walkers. Yes, here they are, a soft mist of purply-blue whispering round the tree trunks.

True, they’re past their best, but they still look magical to us. I lie down to photograph them. We try not to tread on them. We definitely don’t pick them.

Too soon, they thin out, and are gone. But we’re deliriously happy to have caught them at all. What a treat! Springtime’s here at last.

[This blog was written on Sunday, 13 May 2012]

Chilling out at Chesil Cove

WE taste the salt on our lips as soon as we sit down.

Portland is a pale blonde streak of pebbles bleached by time and tide. The sea’s a deep and heart-stopping blue. This is Chesil Cove, although as the sun beats down, you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s an off-duty Maldive.

We sit under the sea wall, currently being shored up by Defra, munching an impromptu picnic of sandwiches and strawberries. We squint seawards – what we think is a seal turns out to be a cormorant, diving for fish.

The Cove House Inn, which hosts a raucous music festival (big cider fest) over the summer bank holiday, is one of our favourite watering holes. We last came here to watch the sun sink into Lyme Bay during the summer solstice.

We fall silent, drinking in the simple joys of sky, sea, and shore in all their stripey glory.

Oh, and gulls. Don’t forget the gulls – they revel in it almost as much as we do.

I think this is where I fell in love with the sea. My mum brought me and my brother here one stormy, stormy day. We were little, and it was well over two decades before the catchphrase ‘Jurassic Coast‘ was coined. We chased the waves and listened in awe to the undertow sucking the pebbles away – loud as a jet engine.

It seems quietly amazing to think we’re sat where the Chesil Beach starts, right here, on our doorstep.

To our right, it stretches out for 18 miles, past the Fleet Lagoon, Abbotsbury, Burton Bradstock, to West Bay.

The West Weares rise up to our left, terraced into the Chiswell Earthworks sculpture created by John Maine. Beach huts are studded into the hill.

Behind us hunches higgledy-piggledy Chiswell, rugged, secretive, strangely seductive. Not for the first time, we think we’d like to live here.

Lured by the chance to win a wedding with all the trimmings – flowers, photography, catering, civil ceremony – we’ve just been to scope out Portland Castle as a venue for our own upcoming nuptials. I wish we could get married here, on the beach, standing looking out to sea on the large flat pebbles, with the wind in our hair, hearing the gulls’ cries on the wind.

We bask in the sunlight and discuss ideas, in no great hurry. Like the song says, we have all the time in the world.

As we drive off Portland we see two riders and horses galloping, galloping half way up the island. It’s a wild and wonderful sight.