Feeding time at Abbotsbury Swannery

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HONKING, hissing, gliding, swans are teeming with silver sunrays on the Fleet Lagoon. Masses of moorhens march on Chesil Beach.

M’colleague Stephen Banks showers scores of swans with birdseed.

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I’m lying down, getting covered in swan poo, trying to get the perfect shot of one stretching its wings, like an angel.

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We’re here for Watershed PR, to collect photos and information for Abbotsbury Swannery’s Facebook Page and Twitter account. (A tough job, but someone’s got to do it).

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The Swanherd rolls up with a barrow of seed, and leaves us to it.

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Mass feeding is an extraordinary sight. I’ve never been this close before. Seething beaks and backs and feathers jostle for food. Droplets glisten at beaks.

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Long necks curve and plunge head-first into the lagoon, like so many hunch-backed sea monsters.

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Some still sport the cygnets’ vestigial tawny plumage.

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A couple of black swans lurk at the back.

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A few daring birds waddle up to the barrow and trough straight from it, boldly.

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The Swannery won’t open to visitors until next month, but behind the scenes Spring slowly unfurls. Sticky buds cluster on bare branches. Emerald spikes of daffodils shoot skywards. Trunks, wrinkly with lichen, blink in the weak February light.

A wheelbarrow loiters near a small bonfire. The Swanherd clears scrub. Nearby are displayed sepia photos of swanherds through the ages – Gregory Gill (1879-1922) and Fred ‘Leckie’ Lexster (1950-1975).

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Swans have flocked to the Fleet Lagoon ever since the Benedictine monks at St Catherine’s Chapel started farming them in the 11th century. There’s a wonderful sense of timelessness here. Bliss.

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Sun and sea in the Happy Valley

SUNSHINE blazes down on Magnolia Avenue. A Red Admiral flutters past. Azaleas and rhododendrons are in bloom, and green daffodil spikes scissor the banks. It’s January, but not as we know it.

This is Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens, a happy valley folded into the most breathtaking stretch of the Jurassic Coast, next to the Fleet Lagoon and the wide blue glory of Lyme Bay.

It’s blessed with its own micro-climate, which means it rarely gets a frost. So the flora and fauna are throwing a party in this, one of the mildest winters on record.

I can’t believe I’m getting paid to be here. (I work for Watershed PR, promoting Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens, among other clients, and today I get a guided tour from Curator Steve Griffith.)

Steve breeds pheasants, and scatters down breakfast seeds for them to squabble over. We pass the kookaburra enclosure. One’s hunched in the nesting box.

He points out red, pink and white camellias. We pause beneath the famous Caucasian Wingnut tree.

We sniff appreciatively at a big pile of dung, spread over one of the flower beds to help them retain moisture in the summer. (Lorryloads of manure get dropped off from the Ilchester Estates).

The views of the coast take my breath away. I can see from St Aldhem’s Head, all the way to Start Point. Sheep regard us impassively. St Catherine’s Chapel is framed by the winter branches, thanks to some skilled tree surgery every two years (a trick borrowed from Capability Brown).

Japanese birches thrust white limbs up to the blue sky. Close relatives of plants that grew 200 million years ago swamp the Jurassic Pond Garden.

These used to be the kitchen gardens for a castle, holiday home of Dorset noblemen, that fell down long ago. Steve shows me a catalogue of plants from the gardens in 1899, beautifully bound and privately printed. He’s working on his own database, and has listed around 2,500 species, but has only just scratched the surface.

I drink in the beauty, and drive back up the coast road to the office, my soul singing.

Chilling out at Chesil Cove

WE taste the salt on our lips as soon as we sit down.

Portland is a pale blonde streak of pebbles bleached by time and tide. The sea’s a deep and heart-stopping blue. This is Chesil Cove, although as the sun beats down, you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s an off-duty Maldive.

We sit under the sea wall, currently being shored up by Defra, munching an impromptu picnic of sandwiches and strawberries. We squint seawards – what we think is a seal turns out to be a cormorant, diving for fish.

The Cove House Inn, which hosts a raucous music festival (big cider fest) over the summer bank holiday, is one of our favourite watering holes. We last came here to watch the sun sink into Lyme Bay during the summer solstice.

We fall silent, drinking in the simple joys of sky, sea, and shore in all their stripey glory.

Oh, and gulls. Don’t forget the gulls – they revel in it almost as much as we do.

I think this is where I fell in love with the sea. My mum brought me and my brother here one stormy, stormy day. We were little, and it was well over two decades before the catchphrase ‘Jurassic Coast‘ was coined. We chased the waves and listened in awe to the undertow sucking the pebbles away – loud as a jet engine.

It seems quietly amazing to think we’re sat where the Chesil Beach starts, right here, on our doorstep.

To our right, it stretches out for 18 miles, past the Fleet Lagoon, Abbotsbury, Burton Bradstock, to West Bay.

The West Weares rise up to our left, terraced into the Chiswell Earthworks sculpture created by John Maine. Beach huts are studded into the hill.

Behind us hunches higgledy-piggledy Chiswell, rugged, secretive, strangely seductive. Not for the first time, we think we’d like to live here.

Lured by the chance to win a wedding with all the trimmings – flowers, photography, catering, civil ceremony – we’ve just been to scope out Portland Castle as a venue for our own upcoming nuptials. I wish we could get married here, on the beach, standing looking out to sea on the large flat pebbles, with the wind in our hair, hearing the gulls’ cries on the wind.

We bask in the sunlight and discuss ideas, in no great hurry. Like the song says, we have all the time in the world.

As we drive off Portland we see two riders and horses galloping, galloping half way up the island. It’s a wild and wonderful sight.

Ticket To Ride

MY BUS to work leaves Weymouth Bay at 7.10am and gets to Bridport one hour later.

Motorists probably cringe at this commute – but I challenge anyone to come up with a more beautiful way to start the day, as the X53 rattles through seaside towns and meanders up the coast road.

The sun twinkles a pathway over the sea each morning. A lone tractor flattens the golden sands for the grockles to kick up, and the crows peck in its wake. The Punch and Judy hut sidles away as we turn past the Jubilee Clock and trundle down King Street.

Normally, at this time of day, two other passengers constitute a crowd on the top deck of this bus. So there’s never a fight for the coveted front seats – or panoramic views.

We head out of Weymouth towards Chickerell. (There’s always something different to marvel over as we rock and roll towards the Langton Herring turn-off. For instance: who owns the small plane I once saw, parked in a field next to a house near the Valentine Boarding Kennels?)

Horses swish their tails as we speed along. A foal drinks from her mother. Hardy’s Monument falls and rises in the distance, atop an undulating patchwork of green. We rumble past the gracious Portland stone homes of Portesham. St Catherine’s Chapel heaves into view over a field of Friesians.

A pair of tiny Shetland ponies blink back their fringes as we shudder to a halt outside the Swan Inn in Abbotsbury. Here, the thatched cottages are a lovely warm honey colour. Nodding fuchsias hang from baskets below latticed windows.

We swing past the turning for the Sub-Tropical Gardens and the horizon tilts as we strain up the hill. The Fleet lagoon glows lilac behind golden cornfields. Dotted white sheep are scattered over ancient barrows. Gorse straggles, foxgloves rear up. The sea is the same colour as pigeon wings. Frightened rabbits, mottled and sandy like the dry grass, streak away from us as we clatter past. Hares, pheasant, deer start away.

A buzzard sits, impassive, on a telegraph pole across a field of cows and curled-up calves. And now, Lyme Bay stretches out, out, out.

Higher and higher we climb, far above the jagged hemline of Chesil, almost to the coastguard cottage at Puncknowle teetering on the brow of the hill.

There’s a small herd of alpacas looking ever so serene next to the Sea Fret B&B. Then we begin our descent into Swyre.

Dry stone walls can’t seem to hold back the pastures from tumbling into the sea. Holiday parks and fields full of donkeys flash past before we arrive in Burton Bradstock.

Sitting at the top of the double decker makes me the same height as the thatched roofs, taller than the willows bending over the River Bride.

Before we know it, we’re taking the narrow lane up to West Bay. There’s a teepee at the Britt Valley Campground. Only the odd dog walker and pram stirs around the tiny harbour.

And so into into Bridport. Seagulls squawk. In a field opposite the Palmers Wine Store are scores of rabbits.

We pass the lovely ramshackle welter of indy galleries and boutiques and awesome honey stone of St Marys. There’s just time for me to catch a glimpse of Colmers Hill before I jump off the bus at Frosts the newsagents, ready to start the working day. All for the price of a £4.70 return ticket. Bargain!